STEP 1 (Inoculate the Sterilized Grain):

Note: In this step, you want mycelium to form in the jars until it fully colonizes the grain

Shake your grain jars to break up any clumps.

Wipe the grey injection port on the lids with alcohol.

Remove a needle from its packaging, attach syringe, inject contents through port.

As you withdraw the needle, hold down the grey port (so it doesn’t come out).

Repeat for other jar.

Put jars in a warm, dark place (e.g., a closet). If it’s not 78 degrees, it won’t work

Mycelium will turn grain solid white in 3-6 weeks.

Shake jars until clumps break up and grain looks brown again.

Put jars back in warm, dark place, until grain again turns solid white (2-6 more weeks).

Don’t rush this step. Robust mycelium will fight contamination in the next phase.

STEP 2 (Move Colonized Grain into Shoebox with no air flow):

Note: If you have 1 healthy jar of spawn, use 1 bag of substrate, or both bags for 2 healthy jars

Wipe the inside of one shoebox tub (and its lid) with alcohol. Let dry.

Boil 2 1/2 cups of water for each bag of substrate.

Pour water over substrate in one tub. (You’ll use the other tub later in the process).

Put on the lid and cover with blanket (to pasteurize substrate).

When the coir is cool, add your colonized grain:

Before opening, shake jars to loosen clumps

Put on gloves; wipe gloves, outside of box lid and jars with alcohol

Open shoebox and jars; pour grain/mycelium into shoebox

Mix the grain and coir well; level the substrate, pressing down the edges a bit

Replace lid and put grow box in warm, dark place (still about 78 degrees).

STEP 3 (Mushroom Fruiting with steadily increasing air flow):

Note: In this step, the mushrooms gradually require more water, air, and light

First, the mycelium must colonize the tub, meaning it turns the substrate white. Starting around day 3 (or whenever the moisture on the walls of the tub starts to dry), you will pop open the lid, mist the substrate, and replace the lid.

As the mycelium grows, you will introduce more fresh air and mist more often (shooting for a moist—not wet—tub).

When substrate is 75% white, move to cooler place (about 72 degrees) with a little light.

Leave the lid open with a 1/4 inch crack.

Watch moisture levels closely at this point (always moist, never wet).

As mushrooms start to grow, wipe inside of second shoebox with alcohol and use it (upside down) as the new lid (creating a terrarium for more air, moisture, and growth).

STEP 4 (Harvest):

Note: Harvest when the mushroom heads are starting to spread. Monitor things closely at this point. You don’t want the spores to drop and turn everything black. It can happen fast. If they drop, it’s not a problem. They just won’t look as pretty.

With gloves, gently twist and pull off the mushrooms (or cut with sterilized scissors).

After you harvest, keep fanning and misting the fruiting chamber for another flush.

Brush/cut off substrate and dry the mushrooms (i.e., with a dehydrator or even just a fan in dry climates)

You want mushrooms “cracker dry” (otherwise, they will spoil).

If a mushroom bends at all, it isn’t fully dry yet.

Store dry mushrooms in dark, dry place or freezer. NOT the refrigerator (too humid).